The Press
Eat Streets - The Age Sunday Life - May 25 2003

Dani Valent

Dani Valent writes

“Restaurants don’t get more personable than this. Walking in, it feels as if you have turned up on the same night as the owners’ family has dropped in for dinner. How else can you explain the banter between waiter and diners, the pat on the shoulder to approve a choice of dessert, the insistence that you try a drop of this wine, too? But no, owners Jenny Walsh and Chris Rees have come from England to open their 10-table French brasserie, and they aren’t in the habit of welcoming their kin for a meal. The atmosphere is boosted by candles, monumental ceiling beams and a bicycle bell that the chef rings when dishes are ready. Menus are everywhere, written on blackboards and wall mirrors. Eat the classic French dishes if you must: your steak will be cooked to order; the béarnaise rich and tangy; and the chips golden crisp. But you will make Jenny Walsh happy if you plump for the more unusual pan-European offerings. There may be a decadent truffled mushroom linguine or a satisfying quail dish with sautéed zucchini, pine nuts and fat raisins.”

Eat Streets – The Age Sunday Life – May 25 2003